Matt Stein Models
Grumman F4F / F3F
WILDCAT / "Fifi"
Conversion/Construction/Completion Tips


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The F4F/F3F Wildcat casting, shown here, includes excess volume and details for conversion to either aircraft type solely by removing mass (and in the case of the F3F using additional biplane parts provided).
I: F4F (monoplane) Wildcat Conversion
=> IMPROVED VERSIONS (with molded-in landing gear and drop tanks): begin Procedure at Step 2<=
(for completion as F3F [biplane] variant, skip to Conversion II, below)

Click on Image to Enlarge
Remove
mass from the blacked-out (inverted) areas shown, in steps (below)
proceeding from those most stressful on the casting through those which
(as a general rule) are progressively more delicate/intricate. The
majority of this is best done using a sanding stick - especially on
wings and control surfaces - and then fine-tuned/finished by scraping
sideways with a straight-edged blade (razor chisel recommended).
1- ORIGINAL (Older) VERSIONS ONLY: At the nose, grind the chin
upwards until the cowling forms a uniform, concentric ring around the
engine inlet, and blend this back into the slimmed belly, with mass
removed as indicated above. Skip to Step 3.
2- IMPROVED VERSIONS (with molded-in landing gear and drop tanks):
As desired, remove one or both drop tanks by first whittling away their
undersides and then scooping/gouging sideways, in a rolling/stroking
motion, with a straight-edged blade (X-Acto #11-type recommended),
being careful not to damage the landing gear or to obliterate the
wing-fold guide lines, if they will be needed later (see below). Skip
to Step 6.
3- ORIGINAL (Older) VERSIONS ONLY: Drill- and hollow out circular
wheel wells in the lower fuselage ahead of lower wing, as indicated
above, and in the center of each drill a small but distinct dimple,
angled downward, to accept a (~0.02" diameter) landing gear strut.
4- At the rear of the canopy, remove the furthest-back canopy
framing, as indicated above (compare to original casting, at top), by
scraping sideways with a straight-edged blade, finishing with restoring
the dorsal groove in the fuselage there, by stroking with the knife tip
(or corner, if a chisel).
5- Add landing gear (using the "Glue Drop" method recommended), with struts of the following specifications:
Main Gear: 0.015" diameter x 0.05" long; mounted pitched 40º outward.
Tail Gear: 0.010" diameter x 0.02" long; raked 45º backward
6-
It is recommended at this point to PAINT and DECAL the aircraft,
considering decal visibility on any wings to be folded (see next).
7- To fold one- or both wings as desired, on their undersides
locate the molded-in guide lines, and continue the scoring in these
grooves until cutting completely through. Reposition each folded wing
flipped down and back against the fuselage, with top side facing out
and leading edge facing down and slightly outward (by approximately
30º), and secure its base with strong adhesive (e.g., gap-filling
CA) at the wing-fold joint.
8- Pre-paint a 3-bladed propeller (with rounded blade tips,
provided by builder) and mount it in the engine inlet on a tiny spindle
of plastic dowel, stretched sprue or wire (also provided by builder),
clipped just ahead of the prop to form a tiny hub, as well.
Touchup-paint any spot(s) as needed, to complete the aircraft.
II: F3F (biplane) "Fifi" Conversion

Click on Image to Enlarge
Remove
mass from the blacked-out (inverted) areas shown, in steps (below)
proceeding from those most stressful on the casting through those which
(as a general rule) are progressively more delicate/intricate. The
majority of this is best done using a sanding stick - especially on
wings and control surfaces - and then fine-tuned/finished by scraping
sideways with a straight-edged blade (razor chisel recommended).
1- Chop/whittle away the upper canopy mass of the windshield and
first two frames, blending into the slope of the long F3F nose, as
shown, and from the third (next) frame back, chop a new windshield face
plate for the F3F at about a 45º angle, as indicated. Once
established, chop- and/or scrape away corners around the faceplate
symmetrically to complete the F3F windshield.
2- Hollow out the engine inlet, extending it downward in the nose until concentric within the entire cowling.
3- Drill- and hollow out circular wheel wells in the lower fuselage
ahead of lower wing, as indicated above, and in the center of each
drill a small but distinct dimple, angled downward, to accept a (~0.02"
diameter) landing gear strut.
4- Convert the (F3f lower) wing by filing down the TIPS FIRST
(while the rest of the wing retains maximum strength) and then the
leading edges, following the underwing, scribed-in guide lines to
remove the excess mass indicated above.
5- Thin lower wing as needed by sanding from underneath
6- Access additional parts included for the F3F conversion:

Click on Image to Enlarge
Conversion parts provided are an upper wing and two wing "N"-struts (plus one spare), as indicated. Remove all casting wafer
(or wafer remnants) from these parts. Free the "N"-struts by first
drilling out the two crotches of each "N" and extending cuts into the
vertices - then outward along the straight legs - and finish using a
straight-edged kife, with the struts laid flat on a hard surface, to
chop them free and then scrape to clean up their edges.
7- Prepare struts for attachment by dragging their ends across a
flat, medium-rough file or sandpaper at an angle of about 75º;
level the ends appropriate to this mounting geometry:

Click on Image to Enlarge
The
struts are deliberately made a little long; find the locator sockets in
the underside of the upper wing and file strut ends down (as above)
until they seat optimally.
8- Secure struts into the top wing underside locators using strong
adhesive (e.g., gap-filling CA), setting their angles approximately as
shown - it is more important that both be angled symmetrically than
precisely to the angle specified (there are no locators on the lower
wing) - allow glue to cure fully.
9- When struts are firmly secured into the upper wing, gently sand
down their feet until producing approximately the wing (vertical)
separation indicated. For yet more detail, fit 0.01"-diameter plastic
rod or PE (either one to be provided by the builder) to make fine
fuselage struts to the upper wing, as indicated. The underside of the
upper wing contains additional locator sockets for these as well.
Attach the upper wing.
10- Add landing gear (using the "Glue Drop" method recommended), with struts of the following specifications:
Main Gear: 0.015" diameter x 0.05" long; mounted pitched 40º outward.
Tail Gear: 0.010" diameter x 0.02" long; raked 45º backward
11-
Pre-paint a 2- or 3-bladed propeller (with rounded blade tips, provided
by builder) and mount it in the engine inlet on a tiny spindle of
plastic dowel, stretched sprue or wire (also provided by builder),
clipped just ahead of the prop to form a tiny hub, as well.
Touchup-paint any spot(s) as needed, to complete the aircraft.
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Copyright ©2009 Matthew M. Stein
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